The Making of an Enamel Cabochon Jewel
There is a lot of jewelry described as enameled, but not all enamels are the same. Many are resin based enamels for coloring a piece without high temperature heat and are easy to do. The higher quality jewelry will be enameled using what is called vitreous enamel which is a pigmented glass that melts at temperatures in the 1300 to 1500 degree Fahrenheit range. It requires specialized tools and techniques. There are many styles and techniques in enameling and I learned this particulare technique from an amazing professional enamelist, Falcher Fusager of who taught a Masters Class at Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco where I graduated as a Jeweler.
Here is a basic explanation of how I create an enamel cabochon jewel:
Forming fine silver cloisonne wire on design
Cloisonne wire set on a domed and textured fine silver disk
Filling in “cells” with wet vitreous enamel
First of several layers ready to fire at 1350 – 1450 degrees Fahrenheit
Using small kiln when firing one piece at a time
Checking to see the progress
First layer fired and ready to add more enamel
Last of several layers fired
Grinding the surface smooth to form a cabochon
Fired one last time to bring back the glossy finish, it’s ready to set!
Finished Piece – Front view
Finished Piece – Back view